Pictured Above: Some true artifacts
Book Three of the original 3-pamphlet Dungeons and Dragons game (1974),
The First Fantasy Campaign, book and player's map (2nd ed. 1977)
First Edition GM's Screens, and three classic modules
First Ed. AD&D Book Collection, Includes
Player's Handbook (1978)
Dungeon Master's Guide (1979)
Monster Manual (1978)
Deities and Demigods (1980)
Fiend Folio (1981)
Monster Manual II (1983)
Dungeoneer's Survival Guild (1886)
Wilderness Survival Guide (1986)
Manual of the Planes (1987)
(That Deities and Demigods book is the "illegal" first edition, which included material from Moorcock and Lieber used without permission. Those sections were deleted in all further copies)
Ok, the hand is a stock picture.
Fourth and last edition of the original "Dungeons and Dragons". Judge's Guild tried to hang on for a while, but it was all AD&D after this.
The guidelines that are presented here were originally developed strictly for face-to-face gaming sessions. My original intention was to publish this material simply as a game aid for local face-to-face games and convention games.
If it isn't clear by now (god knows it should be) I'm not old school, I'm stone age school. As with anything, this implies a comfort with the familiar and a distrust of the unknown. For me, web-hosted games certainly represent the unknown, and I don't mind saying that I'm interested in the idea, but I have issues with it as well. The different possibilities and limitations in the medium means there are structures I think I might want to handle differently, but I don't know enough yet to really know.
The bottom line: Procedures for web games may differ from what is listed here.
Although I'm very fond of tactical wargames, a role-playing game is meant to be different. Part of the "magic" of a good role-playing game comes from players and GM willing to put themselves in role and in character.
This doesn't mean I expect all my players to be actors, or hard-core fanatics who show up in costume. But I will ask players to make an effort to stay "in character". Nothing destroys the potential ambience of a game like constant out-of-character references or discussions. It's not just about minimizing the same repetitious jokes or Monty Python references (I know them all), but it's about each player actively helping to make that environment possible.
The communication hierarchy of each group is different, and has to evolve. It is generally best if one player is given a role as quasi-leader, such that they can speak for the group in general activities ("Ok, so we do this..."). Equally, players need to be willing to make room for each other, and there's only one GM. While I never want a player to feel ignored, no one likes a player who demands excessive individual time. In the end, remember it is the affairs of the group, more than the affairs of the individuals, that interest me the most.
Just because you can do something, it does not mean you should, a concept lost on too many. Phone use is a clear example. Looking up the monster manual because of a figure just placed on the table is fine. Extensive texting during a game, or being involved in over-the-phone games or affairs, is to me a direct signal a player isn't really interested in what's going on. If my game is so boring that an alternate means of stimulus is needed, then I suggest finding an alternate activity. If something important happens, step away and handle it. But please otherwise understand I consider these behaviors a sign of disrespect.
For over forty years, I’ve enjoyed role-playing games. For most of that time, I’ve enjoyed running them. Better than 90% of my gaming experience has been wonderful, but occasionally there have been casualties. The game is only about having fun, but to me, that fun becomes a casualty when trust is broken. One learns from history, and I prefer to be up front and clear about certain expectations.
The following rules are not negotiable.
All dice are required to be rolled at the game table, where they can be seen easily by the entire world. Individual dice must land flat, or they are re-rolled. Dice that roll off the table are re-rolled. Dice rolled before the GM asks for it are ignored. Dice rolled outside of or beyond the GM's line of sight are ignored.
All dice used by players must be clearly and easily readable from at least three feet away, and my bad vision is the standard of evaluation (I’m legally blind without contacts, that’s not a joke). Dice with ambiguous colors, tiny dice, clear dice, anything difficult to be seen and read at distance will be rejected. Dice must use numbers or "pips"; dice with exotic designs or symbols will be disallowed. I don’t really care what your “favorite” dice might be, if I don’t think they are suitable, they will be disallowed.
Please understand: With respect to dice, even the appearance of impropriety is the same as impropriety itself. I do not punish players who do the right thing and have dice from hell, but I will unhesitatingly eliminate any player whom I think is not absolutely honest regarding die rolls or recorded information.
An identical protocol applies to recorded information, both during a game and in between sessions. I expect players to be on top of their numbers at all times. Since some of my rules are unique, I don’t mind the player who wants a pause to be sure their numbers are correct. Never, ever hesitate to ask questions, but don’t let the answer go in one ear and out the other. Once you’ve checked and written them down, numbers don’t change, and it should not be hard for any individual to keep them straight.
The same policy applies to math errors. If you have problems adding numbers correctly, then I suggest finding a different game. This is essentially a zero-tolerance issue.
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